It has been a while since we left Buenos Aires – and even Argentina by now – but that doesn’t mean I’ve got nothing to share about it!
BA is a huge city, populated and hyper extended. There are several quarters worth visiting, the hipster posh Palermo, Recoleta and its cemetery, the alternative Sam Telmo….as it’s often the case for us – the alternative quarters having some street art were our favorite spots.
We stayed in ‘San Telmo’, it’s kind of infamous if you read various travel blogs ir’s often described as dodgy and unsafe and that Palermo is a much better option. In fact we prefered ST much more than Palermo. Palermo is a quarter like you would find in any major city, a hipster hub, it’s definitely nice don’t get me wrong but you would find exactly the same kind of shops, eateries and bars than in many other hip quarters around the world. San Telmo, to the contrary, was vibrant, dirty, smelly at times, sometimes intimidating but it felt much more authentic and South American, it’s populated by working classes, artists, students… There’s a large array of bars, thrift shops, restaurants for all budgets, antiques shops, tango bars… San Telmo is not for the faint hearted but it’s definitely an amazing quarter to stay in when visiting BA.
We found an very well appointed apartment (la ‘Casona de Alma’ on 639 Mexico) where we stayed together with my friend Nadège, who joined us for her holidays. As previously said you can find an incredible number of bars and restaurants in San Telmo and we even went twice to a concert of the same group Dub Inc, a well known French reggae band- my friend’s favourite group which happened to be in town at the same time 😅. Great experience!!
During the day San Telmo offers various markets, a park to stroll around but don’t start the day too early, the days start late here.
We also spent time in Palermo, as mentioned, the hipster area of Buenos Aires with the typical nice houses, trendy cafés, clothing and barber shops. I guess every metropole needs to have an area like this nowadays and even if it had a nice vibe to it, it didn’t really feel like being in Argentina ( there’s a part of Palermo which is called Palermo Soho…very authentic 🤔) the street art all around was very nice though.
Another great area for that is La Boca, very (!) Disneyland like touristic, with the famous ‘Caminito’ and it’s coloured houses, restaurants and souvenir shops…and thousands of tourists but go off the main spots a couple blocks and you’ll still find some authentic popular historic spots. It’s home to the famous Boca Junior football club and features some impressive street art.
Buenos Aires was also our starting point for planning the next destinations in Argentina. For the first time we went to an agency for offers and luckily we did. The agent recommended the North East of Argentina especially during our time of visiting – carnival time and the biggest one of Argentina happens there! We were sold, spent quite some money on our flight tickets but saved days of bus travelling.
I can’t wait to tell you about the amazing North East and the carnival celebrations 😄